Raising backyard Chickens

Top 18 Must-Haves for Raising Backyard Chickens

Top 18 Must-Haves for Raising Backyard Chickens

Are you raising chickens or planning to do so in the near future?  Here are my top 18 must-haves for raising backyard chickens. 

01 Chicken Food & Feeders

Unsurprisingly, food for your chickens is one of the top items you’ll need when it comes to raising them.  Most commercial chicken feeds are formulated to include all of the basic nutrients your chickens need to be healthy and lay eggs. 

Make sure you are choosing the right kind of food for the age of your chickens.  Chicks should get a starter while young non-laying chickens should get a grower.  Hens should get layer feed once they start popping out eggs. 

Feeders are also important to provide for your chickens.  While not entirely necessary (you could just toss the feed on the ground), they do provide a couple benefits.  They help contain the food so it’s not on the ground getting dirty, wet, mixed in with bedding, or pooped on.  They help prevent your chickens from scattering and wasting food (they’ll still do this even with a feeder but it’s a bit more contained).  Certain feeders can also help keep pests such as mice from getting into the food. 

02 Grit, Oyster Shell, & Other Supplements

While just providing your chickens with commercial feed does provide them all of the basic nutrients they need, there are a couple other supplemental items that they need and can benefit from such as grit and oyster shell. 

Most chickens that free range will eat bits and pieces of rock they come across.  These rocks are stored in their digestive system and help break up food which acts in lieu of teeth (which chickens don’t have).

Most commercial grit you buy in stores is crushed up granite.  It usually comes in chick grit (small size) or regular grit for adult chickens.  Even if your chickens are able to free range some part of the day, it’s a good idea to provide them extra grit in case they need it.  This is especially true in winter when they might be roaming around less.  Make sure that grit is provided separately from food so that your chickens are only eating grit when they actually need or want it. 

While most layer feeds are formulated with the right amount of calcium your hens need for laying, you should still provide supplemental sources of calcium for them.  For one, not all layer feeds provide supplemental calcium.  Two, if your chickens are eating treats and other food items, then the formula food will become diluted with these other food sources which also dilutes the amount of calcium in their systems – thus the need for calcium supplementation. 

Oyster shell is the most common form of supplemental calcium; however, you can also sanitize your chickens’ eggs by cleaning and cooking them in your oven at a low temp and crush them up into fine bits and feed back to your chickens.  It’s important to crush them up so your chickens don’t develop bad habits and start eating their own eggs. 

There are also other supplements that can be given to chickens to help boost their health, change the flavor or color of their eggs, prevent pests, and more.   Some such supplements are apple cider vinegar, oregano, rosemary, marigold flowers, chili peppers etc…  I’ll write more on these another time 😊. 

03 Clean Water & Waterers

Clean water is also a must for your chickens as well as devices to contain the water, keep it clean, and free of pests and parasitic intruders.  Water containers or fountains should be cleaned regularly to remove buildup of algae and any other contaminates. 

There are many different kinds of founts and waterers for your chickens.  Some of which can be bought in store and some of which make for a quick and easy DIY.  There are also heated waterers available for those who live in cold climates.   

04 Coop / Housing

Providing a safe and place for your chickens to live and sleep at night is very important.  A chicken coop should provide your chickens with protection from the weather and from predators as well as a quiet and safe place to lay eggs and sleep.  

Coops don’t have to be a designated, store-bought, chicken coop.  They can also be an old, repurposed shed, something you put together quickly with some pallets, or other items that have been repurposed into an abode for your chickens. 

A good coop should have plenty of ventilation and be large enough to comfortably fit the number of chickens you own.  Typically, you’ll want about 3-5 square feet per chicken, however, the more space you can provide for them the better.  More space will also help keep down smells and poo buildups.

Some must haves for the chicken coop itself includes roosts and nesting boxes…

Photo of green field with coop and chickens
Photo by Dani Millington on Unsplash

05 Roosts

Roosting is a natural instinct for chickens, which in the wild, would find a branch on a tree to rest on as they sleep.  Doing so would help protect them from predators on the ground.

Depending on how many chickens you have, you should provide at least one roosting area for them to use that’s large enough each chicken can comfortably sit on it without being overcrowded.  Give each chicken about a 1 foot worth of room. 

Most chickens prefer to be as high up as they can get, so keep in mind if you’re providing multiple roosting areas, your chickens will most likely fight over who gets to be on the highest one.  

Some chicken breeds, such as silkies, are not as good as other breeds when it comes to flying or jumping up on areas.  If you’re raising silkies, you might want to provide lower roosts or have a ramp to make roost access easier for them.

Some items that can be used for roosts include wooden two-by-fours, natural branches, and thick rope.  The roosting material should be wide or thick enough that your chickens can comfortably rest on it without danger of falling off.  It should also be smooth enough so there’s no danger of them injuring their feet on rough edges. 

06 Nest Boxes

Your laying chickens should all be provided with nest boxes for them to lay their eggs.  While you don’t need to have 1 box per chicken, it is recommended to have multiple so your chickens can choose their favorite.  A good ratio is about 1 nest box per 3-4 chickens. 

One thing you may notice is despite having multiple nest boxes, your chickens might all choose to lay in the same 1 or 2 nest boxes.  This is perfectly normal (and to be expected) so there’s no need to provide too many next boxes since they might not get used.

The nest boxes provide a place where your chickens can feel comfortable and protected while laying their eggs.  Usually, they prefer a smaller area where they’re boxed in on 3 sides providing some privacy (not like chicken’s care about privacy that much). 

Ensuring your chickens have access to a nest box not only helps them feel safe while laying their eggs, but also helps keep the eggs cleaner and easier to find. 

You coop may have nest boxes built in or you can provide them separately.  Chickens usually aren’t too picky and old wood boxes, milk bins, cabinet drawers etc. can all make excellent nest boxes for them.   

07 A Chicken Run

If you’re planning to let your chicken’s free range all willy-nilly, then a run might not be necessary.  But if you’re wanting to provide a protected area where they can safely roam during the day without fear of ground or aerial predators getting to them, then a chicken run is a must.

Runs are typically a wood or metal framed area covered in hardware cloth or other sturdy netting that helps keep predators out and your chickens in. 

Since I work in an office most of the day a run was an absolute must for me.  I know that my chickens can scratch and fly about in a spacious area while being safe from most things that could harm them.  Once I get home, I will often let them out of their run area to free range in the yard while I’m nearby and can protect them from dangers. 

08 Bedding / Substrate for the Coop & Run

There are all kinds of materials you can use for both the bedding in the coop as well as substrate within the run.  What works best for you will depend mainly on what’s available in your area, the climate you live in, as well as how much you are willing to spend. 

Substrate will help your chickens feel more comfortable, cut down on odors, and prevent moisture buildup from excrements etc.  This is especially so if you implement the deep litter method.

09 Dust Bath Area / Material

Dust bathing is a common behavior in chickens.  It helps chickens get rid of pests like lice and mites and helps distribute and remove excess the oils from their skin and feathers.  They also seem to just enjoy doing it in general so making sure they have an area where they can dust bath will always be appreciated by them. 

You don’t need to particularly build a dust bath for your chickens, they’ll find one or create their own such as a patch of dirt in your lawn, your kids’ sandbox, or your favorite flowerpot. 

If there’s not a suitable place in your yard for your chickens to dust bath you can provide them with one by filling a tub or old tire with dirt, sand, and ash etc.  It’s a good idea to do so in an area that has coverage and won’t get rained on.     

10 Protection from Extreme Weather

Depending on where you live, your area may experience extreme heat or cold.  While many animals are able to adapt to weather conditions, your chickens, which are generally secured in a coop and run, don’t have the ability to fly south for the winter or hibernate.

As such, it’s up to us to help provide them what they need to cope with extreme weather conditions. 

For hot conditions it’s important to make sure there’s adequate ventilation in the coop, access to water sources, as well as shaded areas to get out of the sun.

For cold weather, most chickens will be fine as long as it doesn’t get in the negative degrees and as long as they have a dry, draft-free coop with plenty of bedding.  If your area gets extremely cold weather (negative -20’s and below) then you might want to find ways to insulate your coop and run areas and provide some supplemental heating (*Note that heat lamps are NOT recommended as they can cause fires).  Feeding your chickens fat-building foods such as cracked corn or warm treats will also help keep them warm in cold weather.

Chicks and young chickens that haven’t fully developed their feathers are especially in danger of weather fluctuations.  Make sure to know what temperatures are best for them for their age and keep them accommodated. 

11 Protection from Predators

 It is a rather well-known fact that chickens, are delicious.  As such they’re often targets of various predators which can range from rodents, hawks, foxes, bears, and humans, among many other potential chicken eaters/nabbers. 

As a chicken owner it’s up to you to decide which methods to use and how much protection you want to provide your chickens.  Free ranging chickens aren’t going to have much protection unless you have roosters in your flock or a livestock guardian such as a dog or even goose (did you know guard geese were a thing?). 

Chickens being kept close to a home in a coop and run will typically have a lot more protection than free or open-range chickens.  These areas can be made secure through sturdy wire mesh (aka hardware cloth), predator skirts, security lights, electric fencing, and more. 

How much protection you can and need to provide will mainly depend on how protective you are of your chicken’s safety, how much time and money you’re willing to invest in them, and what predators you have in your area. 

Fox stalking a prey - Raising chickens
Photo by Zdenek Machacek on Unsplash

12 Pest Prevention & Control

Chickens, no matter how clean you keep their coops and runs, are still going to attract a decent number of insects and other pests.  Preventing and controlling these pests is essential to help keep your chickens happy and healthy – it will also keep you happy when you don’t have to walk through a swarm of flies to collect your eggs. 

Regularly cleaning the coop and run will help control the pests and your chickens will also snack on some of them (have you ever seen those videos of chickens eating a rat whole or gobbling up a snake?!). 

Food grade Diatomaceous Earth, when used in appropriate quantities, can be a big help in preventing and getting rid of pests such as mites or live on your chickens.  While you don’t want your chickens breathing in excessive amounts, a little bit sprinkled inside the coop and in their dust baths can go a long way in helping prevent certain bug pests.  Remember to get the food grade kind since it’s safe to be ingested. 

13 Protection from Other Chickens

While hopefully not necessary, there may come a time when you need to have some items on hand to help protect your chickens from each other.

Chickens, by nature, have a pecking order that is generally established through some minor infighting and tiffs.  While this is normal, there are times it might go too far, and you can end up with injured chickens. 

As such, it’s a good idea to have an extra pen or area where you can temporarily keep a chicken who was picked on and is injured, or possibly keep the aggressor until you decide to reintroduce them or possibly rehome them. 

If you have overly aggressive chickens that often peck on your other chickens, then they also make little eye blinders (like horses use) that lower chicken’s ability to see in front of them which helps with the aggression.

If your flock has an over-eager rooster who’s rough on the hens, then you might need to invest in some chicken saddles for them.  These fit over their backs and protect them from the rooster’s spurs or from having their feathers pulled out as they hold on to them. 

14 First Aid Kit

While we all hope that our chickens will remain healthy and unharmed at all times, things happen.  A chicken might peck another and draw blood, they can get bumble foot, attacked by a predator, and a whole bunch of other potential health issues and injuries. Having a first aid kit on hand with some essentials will save you in an emergency when you aren’t able to get to a store and buy what you need and a chicken needs immediate attention.

15 Chicken Snacks

One thing all of your chickens will enjoy is being provided treats on occasion.  Treats for your chickens can be very helpful when encouraging your chickens to get comfortable being around you or training them to come to you when you call for them.

Chickens in general are very food-driven and food makes (chicken) friends.

16 Entertainment

While your chickens will keep themselves entertained for the most part through pecking, scratching, and dust bathing, providing additional forms of entertainment is never a bad idea.  Providing entertainment and enrichment activities has also been proven to decrease aggression in chicken’s behaviors. 

Entertainment for them can be as simple as a couple branches for them to perch on in their run, a mirror, different treat dispensers, or a pile of leaves for them to scatter around.    

17 Coop Boots

While these are more for you than they are your chickens, it’s a good idea to have a pair of boots or another type of shoe that’s designated for wearing around your chickens. 

Even if you clean your coop and run out daily, there’s still going to be chicken poo all over the place and you don’t want to be dragging whatever gets on your shoes into your house. 

18 Chicken Tech

They’re not 100% necessary, but there are a couple tech items around which can make raising chickens a lot easier. 

Automatic chicken doors can be extremely helpful, especially if you don’t want to be going out every morning and evening to manually lock your chickens in their coop (for protection from predators).  They’re especially good for people like me who aren’t early risers but want my chickens to be able to get out of their coop into their run at first light.  These typically range in price from about $20-$200+ depending on the brand and how fancy it is.  

If you’re wanting to incubate and hatch your own chicks (instead of letting a broody chicken hatch them), then an incubator is a must.  These have a considerable range in price depending on the brand, number of eggs they can hold, and functions available.  Cheap incubators can be bought online for $20-30 dollars while the nicer fancy incubators, like what hatcheries might use, are several thousand. 

I hope you found this list helpful!

Quail chick in incubator
Photo by Christian Bown on Unsplash
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